Many Visitors to Kathmandu make the trip to Dhulikhel in order to view a colourful sun rise or sun set which illuminates the Himalayan peaks from the Everest-Khumbu region to Himalchuli. But, unfortunately, few visitors stay long enough at Dhulikhel to take advantage of the environs- to walk the narrow lanes bordered by houses with exquisitely carved window frames, doorways, and roof supports; or to walk to the Tibetan pilgrimage site, Namobuddha. Both can be easily accomplished throughout the year.

Dhulikhel is about thirty kilometres east of Kathmandu, alongside the Arniko Highway, the Kathmandu-Kodari Highway. Travellers can take advantage of local buses, which leave every hour from Kathmandu, or arrange their own transportation. As you travel towards Dhulikhel, you will pass Bhaktapur and Banepa, both former centres of the ancient Malla Kingdoms.

The walk to Namobuddha can take two and half hours, but no longer than four hours. You begin your walk following the paved road past District Offices And the tundikhel, (the large, open field) eventually coming to the Veterinarian’s Office, where the pavement ends. At this point, you follow the footpath, criss-crossing the motorable dirt road until you reach the saddle of the hill, after about fifty minutes, and a stone stairway to a small shiva temple. From the temple, you can see Dhulikhel, Banepa, Panauti, the Himalayas, and part of the trail/roadway to Namobuddha. After leaving the temple, return to the saddle and walk fifty meters, where you will then choose to follow the path which descends, rather than following the lengthier road route. Upon intersecting the road again, your walk continues past scattered settlements, and you will have many opportunities to speak with local residents, eager to practice their English. As you walk you’ll probably meet Tibetan and Bhutanese, who are on their way to Namobuddha.

The legend of Namobuddha is centuries old. The term “Namo” is Tibetan for adoring or blessing. According to the legend, Buddha was travelling through the great forest when he came upon a tigress guarding her cubs. Her mate had been gone a number of days; and the tigress was unable to get food for her cubs, since she didn’t want to leave them alone. The Buddha, after hearing this, offered his arm for food. The tigress was reluctant to accept this gift, realizing that the Buddha would be crippled. The Buddha then offered the blood from his arm. There is a stone tablet near the retreat canter depiction this scene.  

There are two areas at Namobuddha. The lower section, at the end of the roadway, has a stupa, a prayer chapel, and a number of teashops. At the southwest side of the stupa, a trail rises to the hilltop and the retreat canter. The retreat canter is used by monks who spend three years apart from society in order to further their spiritual knowledge and practise. You won’t meet any of these individuals, but there are other monks who will show you the location of the stone tablet and possibly take you into the retreat canter’s prayer room; if you like, you can give donation. The entire setting is peaceful, and the scenery is equally satisfying.

After you descend to the stupa, you have choice of routes. You can, either return by following your original path, or you can walk to Panauti, a town more than three hours away. The trail to Panauti begins near the northwest section of the stupa, descends through a wooded forest, and then follows a route past Newar, Brahmin and Chhetri farming communities. The valley is colourfully contrasted by the growing wheat, rice, or mustard seed crops and the clay covered walls of the thatched roof houses. There are sundry temples, varying in size and craftsmanship, as well.
Eventually, the trail meets a river, which you follow to Panauti. This is one of two rivers which pass the town, and create a confluence, an auspicious site for a temple; Temples are presently being restored in order to maintain the elaborate woodcarvings. If you have time, walk the passageways of this old town. If not, take the car to Banepa, about twenty to thirty minutes away.